Taste This: BBQ Rib Dinner ($25 as of Feb. 19, with two sides) at Soulful Vegan Bar and Grill, 12 E. Exchange St. in Akron.

Creator: Frey Canty, owner. 

Dine-in décor: The restaurant enchants with its smart and savvy art deco design, warm painted walls and columns, soft light glow, and, on select evenings, live music. The salmon color banquette seating is eye-appealing and comfortable and easily accommodates many diners. This unique arrangement stretches across every inch of a long wall, maximizing seating and table space. Definitely adds a classic look.

I found the ambiance comfortable and moody. My first impression was a delight: The well-designed bar with midcentury seating met my eye immediately.  

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Inside scoop: Stepping into the new Akron downtown location of Soulful Vegan, I felt a mix of curiosity and mild trepidation. Having never tasted anything vegan in my 50 and better years, I was unsure of what to expect. 

I decided, however, to approach this new experience with an open mind. As I’m sure some Akron residents will. Scanning the rather extensive menu, I was struck by the sheer variety of offerings. No meat. No dairy. No exceptions. Determined to find something familiar, I zeroed in on the blackened salmon. At least, that’s what I assumed it was.

Frey Canty, the owner of Soulful Vegan, in the kitchen area of her plant-based restaurant’s new location in downtown Akron. (Susan Zake / Signal Akron)

I flagged down my server and inquired about dishes, only to be met with a revelation that momentarily shattered my resolve. The “ribs” were not actual ribs but derived from a fruit I had never heard of before — jackfruit. My mind reeled.

And so, with my curiosity heightened, I prepared for my first bite.

I am coming to an understanding that plant-based pitmasters know how to master perfect blends of the sweet and smoky taste of traditional barbeque with dishes that include jackfruit. And that texture is a huge component of what makes or breaks a meat alternative.

Eye test: The modest serving gives off BBQ vibes, with the entree covered in a generous, but not overwhelming, spread of sauce. It gives the impression that texture will accompany taste. 

Taste This

“Taste This” is our glimpse of the Akron area’s tastiest, distinctive and popular (or soon-to-be-famous) food, drinks and desserts — and the local culinary talents behind them. Tough job, we know. Know any menu items we should consider? Tell us here. 

Beverage Pairing: Cocktails and mocktails pair with menu choices. I ordered the Cucumber Lemonade Fizz. The mocktail is served in a handsome glass, with one crisp cut circle of cucumber paired with tart lemonade topped with sparkling water and a fresh slice of lemon.

About the restaurant: Soulful Vegan’s downtown location opened in February. The business was previously located in a smaller location in Merriman Valley.

Featured menu items are vegan spins on popular meat dishes without the meat: Burgers, wings, fish, chicken sandwiches, cheesesteaks and shrimp to name a few. The restaurant also hosts happy hour specials as well as weeknight karaoke and brunch on Saturdays.

Canty assures diners of the finest fresh food sources. “We refuse to compromise on quality in our vegan restaurant,” she said. “That’s why we source our fresh ingredients from local farmers’ markets. No matter what time of year, you can be sure you’re eating the best vegan food of the season.”

How to buy: Soulful Vegan Bar and Grill is open Wednesdays through Sundays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 4 p.m. to 12 a.m. (The kitchen closes at 11 p.m.). The restaurant is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

Patricia Sheahan is a professor, student teacher supervisor, installation artist, educational consultant for the integration of the arts across all disciplines and a freelance writer. Sheahan enjoys more than four decades of education experience at K-12 schools in New York and Pennsylvania and higher education at Seton Hill University, the University of Pittsburgh, Duquesne University, Penn State and most recently the University of Akron. Her favorite courses to teach are Social Justice Through the Arts, Ethics, Introduction to Critical Education, Classroom Management and Integrating the Arts K-12. Interests include visiting the Akron Art Museum, Akron Library, Civic Theatre, walking downtown to view murals and window light installations plus the stunning flower and plant arrangements, antiquing, especially from her own vendor space at The Brothers North Antiques in Medina. She also frequents Akron restaurants and local boutiques, travels and spends time with her family; a daughter and her newly blended family in North Canton, a son and his family in San Diego and a son in Dallas.