Taste This: Eggplant parmesan ($20 as of Feb. 19, 2025) at Luciano’s Cucina Italiano (330-808-7670), located at 21 Furnace Street, Suite 402 in Akron.
Creator: Eric Hinman, executive chef.
From our foodie: My Italian heritage begs an unending search for authentic eggplant parm prepared like my southern Italian aunts and grandmother. After all, I spent countless hours in a garden with my father’s sisters — Philomena and Patrizia — in Rossiter, Pennsylvania.
When the eggplant was ready to harvest, they taught me how to clean, slice, salt and prepare it.
Back to the present. On a recent Wednesday evening, I invited my son-in-law, Bill VanNatten, to accompany me for dinner as his curiosity and appreciation for fine dining is admirable. He’s also a delightful dinner guest. He ordered the signature meatball in a zesty marinara sauce over handmade spaghetti topped with Pecorino Romano at $21. Evidence of his approval? An empty plate.
As for me, I ordered the eggplant parmesan.
Locally sourced ingredients: Hinman and owner Joel Testa said many ingredients used in the restaurant are sourced from Italy, including San Marzano tomatoes canned in Italy.
Eye test: The eggplant parmesan is plated on a simple, elegantly designed white pasta bowl. Eggplant slices sit on homemade spaghetti marinara and are topped with house sauce, buffalo mozzarella and parmesan. A toasted twist of basil is inserted to the side of the dish for eye appeal.
What makes this dish special: Eggplant parmesan, also known as parmigiana di melanzane, is a classic vegetarian dish that originated in the Campania region of Southern Italy. At Luciano’s Cucina Italiano, crispy describes this traditional Italian dish. Hinman stresses the salting of the eggplant slices, which helps to elevate and intensify the flavor. Also, the breading process is handled with special care.
(According to my Italian family, the traditional version doesn’t use breading, but the Italian American version adds breadcrumbs.)
Beverage pairing: VanNatten and I enjoyed two California wines with our entrees — both suggested by an extraordinary server, Matt Kellar. We enjoyed Terzetto Red Blend with the eggplant dish and Bonanza Cabernet Sauvignon with the signature meatball entrée. The wines were $10 each. Prior to ordering an appetizer, we enjoyed two cocktails. VanNatten was smitten by the Nutty Professor as it includes his favorite spirit, Buffalo Trace, Disaronno, egg white, black walnut bitters and pistachio syrup. I requested a Black Manhattan with Sazerac rye whiskey and Amaro Averna. The cocktails were $14 each.
Process: Eggplant is carefully salted to remove excess moisture and liquid. It’s then baked at 350 degrees until the eggplant is crispy on the outside and enjoys a velvety texture on the inside. The house-made marinara sauce simmers for seven hours.
Creator’s back story: Hinman oversees Testa Hospitality Group’s kitchens for all its restaurants, including Luciano’s, the newest addition. (Other restaurants in this group are located in Cuyahoga Falls: Mattioli’s Pizza, Oak and Olive, The Watson Speakeasy and Butcher & Sprout.)
“Taste This” is our glimpse of the Akron area’s tastiest, distinctive and popular (or soon-to-be-famous) food, drinks and desserts — and the local culinary talents behind them. Tough job, we know. Know any menu items we should consider? Tell us here.
In 2005, Hinman graduated from Johnson & Wales University with an Associate of Science-AS, Culinary Arts/Chef Training. Hinman’s experience includes six years as operating partner for P.F. Chang’s China Bistro in Akron, executive chef at Rustic Hills Country Club in Medina, BJs Restaurant and Brewhouse and P.F. Chang’s in Cleveland.
Luciano’s history: Testa, the owner, has redesigned the space that formerly held Dante Boccuzzi Akron, a rock ‘n’ roll-themed restaurant.
The new look includes three canvas photos of Testa’s family’s hometown in Carovilli, Italy. The images grace the long wall in the main dining area, serving not only as a prominent design feature, but sound barriers.
Contemporary sleek silverware, sophisticated glassware, an Italian music playlist, several fine wines, cocktails and mocktails add to the elegant vibe and stunning Tuscan ambiance. Diners experience an electric energy emanating from the staff, beginning at the front door. It continues at the bar, through the wait staff and an occasional surprise visit from the executive chef. A hand-cranked prosciutto slicer and a parmesan wheel are part of the allure.
The menu features duck ravioli, sautéed calamari, veal chop and favorites from Dante Boccuzzi Akron such as the Hong Kong mussels and flatbreads.
How to buy: Luciano’s Cucina Italiano hours are Tuesdays through Saturdays from 4 p.m. – 10 p.m. The restaurant is closed on Sundays and Mondays.
